Japan, 20 kilometres a day and a lifelong dream

Kyoto

Two days in Kyoto and I already wanted to stay.

I began with Kiyomizudera and Kenninji, then wandered through Gion among lanterns and wooden houses. The next day brought Fushimi Inari, Kyoto Station, Nishiki Market and the bamboo grove at Arashiyama.

The distance adds up quickly. Comfortable shoes are not a minor detail here; they can decide how much of the afternoon you actually enjoy.

Koyasan

Sleeping in a real monastery.

At Shojoshin-in I slept on a futon, tried the monks’ vegetarian food, used the ofuro and joined the morning Buddhist ceremony. Waking up among mountains and complete silence was one of the most distinctive moments of the trip.

Hiroshima and Miyajima

A floating torii and a visit that needs time.

I took the Shinkansen to Hiroshima and the ferry to Miyajima. Later, the Peace Park and Memorial Museum required a slower, more reflective pace. I would not squeeze them between too many other visits.

I am still not over it

Four everyday things that surprised me.

• Japanese bathrooms: warm, quiet and more technologically advanced than many homes.
• Vending machines: in stations, streets, temples and even mountain areas.
• Konbini: Lawson, FamilyMart and 7-Eleven become extremely useful when jet lag changes your schedule.
• Queues: people wait, nobody pushes and the whole system feels calmer than expected.